Wednesday, 2 February 2011

Composting or burying -what is the best strategy?

Now I have been criticized for burying logs and brushwood rather than burning or composting.  I have been told that methane, a potent greenhouse gas, will be produced and that I will be contributing to global warming unless I stop doing this.  Is there any truth in this?  I will find out.

Since I was a toddler, I have been making compost.  My mother used to send me down to the compost heap to put kitchen scraps onto the pile.  My grandfather and father were avid composters and religiously added compost to the soil each year.  As far as I can remember, they more or less built up a pile of waste vegetation and, apart from adding a little lime and soil, did little else to the heap until they dug it in. 
In my teens I read a little about composting and made a little better attempt, aided by my father’s admirable wooden compost bin constructions. 
The classic compost heap


Within the 5 foot by 5 foot compost bin the top soil was dug out and a pit formed.  The topsoil was kept next to the bin and added to the compost as the pile grew.  Some woody prunings were put at the bottom of the bin, to aid in the drainage of the compost.  Layers of weeds, prunings, leaves, kitchen peelings, vegetable tops (like potato stems and leaves) and bonfire ash were added but in no scientific order.   I did not add the “right” proportions of green and brown.  After about 1 foot of compost I added a layer of soil and after about 3 layers of soil I added a little lime or compost accelerator.  Although the books said that I should turn the composts every so often to get air into the heap, I rarely did so.  However, it made acceptable compost and each year we could have two heaps of about 5 feet tall. 
In Victorian times the gardeners had no access to commercial seed and potting composts, so they had to make their own. They did this by carefully composting grass turfs, leaves and garden wastes separately.  After these materials had broken down and turned into compost they blended them carefully into their own potting and seed composts.  As I buy sterilized general purpose peat free compost, I do not have to be as particular about how the compost is made. It is only going to be added to the vegetable plots and not used in seed trays or plant pots.
 I have, in the past, made my own seed and potting compost and I made compost as part of my job at the Glasshouse and Crops Research Institute. 
The old John Innes formula for seed compost was:
Loam 2 parts
Moss peat 1 part
Coarse Sand 1 part
And for each bushel of the mixture
Chalk ¾ oz
Superphosphate 1 ½ oz
The old John Innes formula for potting compost was:
Loam 7 parts
Moss peat 3 parts
Coarse sand 2 parts
And for each bushel of this you added:
Chalk ¾ oz
John Innes Base 4 oz. 
The John Innes base was:
Hoof and horn 2 parts
Superphosphate of lime 2 parts
Sulphate of potash 1 part. 
The formula that I liked to use was:
Fibrous loam 4 parts
Well rotted leaf mould 2 parts
Coarse Sand 1 part
Well rotted manure or sieved compost 1 part.



Regardless of almost everything, when something decays the process is catalyzed by microorganisms and the formula is:
     CxHy+(x+y/4)O2=xCO2+(y/2)H2O
Of course the process of decay is a lot more complicated than this and the contribution of archaea is not fully understood at the moment.

However, the final product of composting, everything else considered, is carbon dioxide and water.  A proportion of the carbon will be diverted for a time into the bodies of bacteria, fungi, plants and animals but eventually, lastly and finally we all end up as carbon dioxide and water – with a relatively small amount of iron, calcium, phosphorus etc. 
This is exactly the opposite of photosynthesis where carbon dioxide and water are combined with the help of sunlight energy to produce carbohydrates. 
There are other pathways for the carbon to go depending on the microorganisms that it encounters.  If anoxic conditions occur – and they very often do, then methanogenic bacteria will use organic molecules to produce methane.  They are strictly obligate anaerobes, which are poisoned by the presence of oxygen levels as low as 0.18 mg/L of molecular oxygen. 

2C organic+2H2O=CO2+CH4

 Composting, it is suggested, when done well constitutes an aerobic environment where methanogenic bacteria will not be able to live. Let me tell you a secret, methanogenic bacteria are ubiquitous.  They are everywhere and what is more; anoxic environments are more common than you expect.  Obligate anaerobic bacteria can happily live in the plaque on your teeth.  Micro environments in compost heaps will be anoxic.  Methane is produced.
 
So why are we not overwhelmed by methane?  Why is there so little in the atmosphere?  Possibly because there are another set of bacteria called methanotrophs or methanophiles that are able to use methane as a source of both carbon and energy.  What is more they can grow aerobically like Methylococcus capsulatus or anaerobically, which means that regardless of where the methane is formed (in the compost heap or deep in the ground after I have buried logs and brushwood) these bacteria can metabolize methane by either incorporating the carbon into their bodies or producing carbon dioxide and water in energy production.  Some like Methylomirabilis oxyfera reduce nitrate to nitrogen  with the help of other microbes and so contribute to nitrogen loss from the soil. An archaeon is implicated in the breakdown of methane by sulphate reducing bacteria, and leads to the characteristic smell of hydrogen sulphide or rotten eggs that is sometimes associated with the breakdown of  organic matter.  . 
 
The difference between the relatively aerobic conditions of a compost heap (I still maintain that even the best of compost heaps are mostly anoxic) and the relatively anoxic conditions of buried vegetation is the speed at which methane can be metabolized.  As methane use by methanotrophs is slower in anoxic environments there could be a buildup of methane but my contention is that I bury comparatively small amounts of green matter and that the soil methanotrophs can deal with it fairly easily.  In land fill sites there is a vast amount more organic matter compared to my allotment.  This has been demonstrated to overwhelm the methanotrophs and the production of methane is very evident. 
So I argue that burying vegetation will produce no more methane than a compost heap would. If some of the carbon buried in whatever form is prevented from quickly decaying, possibly it could become a carbon sink. There is some evidence of carbon staying in the soil for considerable amounts of time.

Burning just bypasses all of these processes and goes straight to the greenhouse gasses of water vapour and carbon dioxide without the opportunity for carbon capture within the bodies of heterotrophs. 

Tuesday, 1 February 2011

Green manures

Grazing rye green manure 
I have tried many different green manures. Several of the allotmenteers around my allotment first decided to go for grazing rye. It was expensive but it did the job very well. If I have the choice I will use grazing rye more than anything else. It produces a lot of leaves and a great mass of fibrous roots. The one drawback, if you can call it that, is that it does not fix nitrogen from the air (or I should say doesn't have Rhizobium bacteria). 

The legumes have these bacteria and fix nitrogen from the air producing nutrients, if the whole plant is dug in. 30% of the fixed nitrogen is in the root and 60% is in the stem and leaves. Where the other 10% goes I don't know. So in the legumes, I have used tares, lupins and am now using field beans.

I use ordinary lawn grass seed as a green manure and, although this is not quite as good as grazing rye, it is a fairly good second choice.

Caliente Mustard Green Manure
I have also used ordinary mustard and Caliente mustard. Caliente mustard is supposed to have pesticidal properties if you cut it up when digging it in. Mustard is great for covering a large area with weed suppressing green manure. It can be grown in the summer after things like potatoes and onions have been cropped. I have not tried any other of the normal green manures but sometimes, if I have any seed left over, I will just sow this to be dug in in the spring.

 The season for planting green manures is well past, although I was thinking of putting broad beans in the brassicae bed and hoping that they would produce something before I put the cabbage out in May/June time but I doubt very much if that would be successful.

Green manures will go in on any ground where crops have been harvested.

Sunday, 30 January 2011

Last of the carrot harvest.

I dug up the last of the carrots yesterday and I washed them for cooking tomorrow.  They are a little moth eaten but they will do.  I am amazed that they survived the very cold weather but you can see that they have suffered a little.  When you have peeled them and diced them you cannot tell how they looked beforehand so I am not worried about how they look now. 



I bought home a few of the smaller parsnips to make soup out of.  I have the others in a clamp on the allotment now because I needed to dig where they were.  You can see that these had a little bit of canker at the tops.  I have cut most of it off but there is still some showing.  That will be cut off when I am peeling them. 

Parsnips

These are the last of the beetroot.  They are not bad but a little small.  They really need to be cooked because they are begining to go over now. I had to put quite a few in the compost bin. 



A good lot of Brussel sprouts.  These are Trafalgar and they taste very sweet.  Never ever eat frozen Brussel sprouts they are foul. 

Brussel Sprouts 

Friday, 28 January 2011

Has aminopyralid finally gone away?

There were many of us organic growers in UK affected by the aminopyralid herbicide. It affected potatoes particularly badly. Used on grass, which it did not affect, it was supposed to be effective for at least two years. Cows and horses ate the grass and we used the manure on our allotment gardens. The effect of this herbicide on our allotments is only now beginning to wear off. It is worrying to realise that chemicals like this can pass through the food chain with little monitoring from the people that produce the chemicals. We were told by Dow AgroScience that our produce would be edible but we all had to think hard about whether we were going to eat it. 

Aminopyralid herbicide was banned for a while in the UK but now it can be used again. The government has published instructions that say affected manure cannot leave the farm. I am just wondering if it is on bedding straw that is moved to farms and stables . They can sell us their manure but it will still be contaminated. A lot of us are thinking hard about using cow and horse manure now.

Thursday, 27 January 2011

My allotment via Google

This is my allotment of about three years ago.  They had not changed the soil on the bottom bed next to the carpark on this photograph.  I now have two sheds and four compost bins on the allotment that I didn't have then.  The car park looks spectacular here.  Well they ripped it all up and took it away because it was contaminated.  It did not contaminate my soil. Oh no, that was already polluted with benzo (a) pyrene, so they had to replace the soil in the bed on my allotment next to the carpark.


I took the greenhouse down because it was getting smashed up by vandals.  Thank heavens we have cured that now.  The trackway has had a lot less water on it because I put a proper drainage pipe alongside the allotment.  There are two springs on my allotment.  The first is in the bottom right corner and the other is about half way down the right hand side.
I dug down quite deep today and did not find any water.  I did find a lot of brushwood that had not decomposed even after a year Tone.  That surprised me. 

The allotments around me look quite good don't they? I wish.  Now that some of the old blokes have gone it is getting a little untidy again.