Showing posts with label sweet cicely tea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sweet cicely tea. Show all posts

Tuesday, 28 December 2010

Comfrey, Nettle and Sweet Cicely Tea

I have five rows of comfrey and two rows of nettles grown properly with weeding and hoeing.  I am also using sweet cicely which also makes a good liquid fertilizer.  I harvest them by cutting near to the base of the plant and take off all the leaves.  They are then put into one of two very large butts I have.  I do not add any water, although I have made comfrey tea using water in the past.   I leave the comfrey, nettles and sweet cicely leaves in the butt for about a month or two.  However, I keep draining off the tea using taps at the bottom of the butts and putting into the dustbins with charcoal. 

The tea looks just like Tomorite to me.  I keep filling my butt up with leaves throughout the year as they rot down. I try not let the plants get too big or flower. I harvest the leaves about 5 times a year putting the leaves in the same butt unless it is full. I have other butts that I can put comfrey in if I have too much. There is a tap at the bottom of the comfrey butt and I use this to put some in the watering can each time I water things. It is relatively high in potash (K) - good for flowers and fruit. So, yes you can keep adding leaves to the butt if you want to.

They say that nettles are high in nitrogen and comfrey is high in potassium. Compared with what though? I think we are talking about very small amounts of nutrient but that is all that most vegetables seem to need. Nettle and Comfrey have more nutrient than farmyard manure but farmyard manure has very little nutrient in, so it does not need much more to be better. 

Ken Thompson in his book "An Ear to the Ground"  says that Russian Comfrey Symphytum x uplandicum  is rich in all three main mineral nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium but it is not unique in this.  "Some plants can do just as well, maybe even a little better  including: chickweed (Stellaria media),  nettle  (Urtica dioica), sweet cicely (Myrrhis ororata), fat hen  (Chenopodium album), goose grass (Galium aparine), and hedge garlic (Alliaria petiolata).  So I chuck some of these into the butts as well. 

I think that the adding of both comfrey liquid and farmyard manure have greater effects than just adding nutrient to the soil. They encourage soil organisms which may form symbiotic associations with plant roots or at least provide further nutrients or nutrients in a form that the plants can use.

Healthy soils with lots of dead plant matter, humus and microorganisms grow good plants.

Comfrey is as tough as old boots. It will certainly come back in the spring. Mine has died completely back and is difficult to make out at the moment. I tried digging between the rows and started to dig up roots. Not to worry though because I just planted them again. They might not come but I have sufficient anyway.

A bit of frost and snow will not hurt comfrey.

Sunday, 19 December 2010

Terra Preta on a cold December day.

Although I am going to go through what is known about these black earths, I think that it cannot be decided how useful this will be for amateur gardeners until we have tried it for ourselves.  This is what several of us are doing at allotments.uk.

Could the research on Amazonian black earths be applied to British soils to increase their fertility?  Research shows large areas of fertile black earths in otherwise very poor rain forest soils.  The fertility of these soils seems to be associated with charcoal added to the soil over thousands of years by indigenous South American civilizations.  This could have been done purposefully or coincidentally when adding midden contents to fertilize fields. Regardless of their motivation, it seems that this has produced a remarkable soil with some strange characteristics. 
It seems that regardless of its use it remains fertile for generations even when these fields were reclaimed by the rain forest.


Ignoring the weeds, this end of the pea rows did not get any inoculated charcoal. 


 This is the end that got the inoculated charcoal. Not the best peas in the world because they were on relatively infertile soil.

However, when scientists add charcoal to soil there is a noticeable reduction in fertility. This is cited as a reason for not developing a slow acting soil amendment from a charcoal base.  How could such a relatively inert substance, which does not degrade substantially over hundreds of years, reduce fertility?

There is some suggestion that charcoal adsorbs or absorbs nutrients in the soil.  It certainly has the capacity to do this having an intricate structure of many small channels giving it an extremely large surface area.

So nutrients may well have a tendency to adhere to the large surface area.  As there is a depletion of nutrients in surrounding areas of soil when charcoal is added to the soil, maybe adding nutrients to charcoal before putting it on soil might mitigate any adsorption or absorption problems that adding "neat" charcoal might produce. 

This could produce a slow nutrient release system.  Affinity of the charcoal for nutrients depends on the condition and type of soil it is in, but I would suggest that this would be a buffering mechanism.  It would adsorb nutrients when they were in surplus but as concentration decreases the charcoal will lose nutrient by a diffusion process maintaining equilibrium with the surrounding soil.
What kind of nutrients could amateur gardeners inoculate the charcoal with to give the maximum long lasting effect on the fertility of their soil?
Several different methods and recipes have been suggested; however I will only give you the method and nutrients that I use personally.  My charcoal, which is just barbecue lump charcoal, is marinated in:

·         Chamomile tea
·         Nettle tea
·         Sweet Cicely tea
·         Worm tea
·         Sugar
·         Blood, fish and bone meal.

The mixture is housed in an old plastic dustbin and left for at least two months.  After this time the charcoal is removed, allowed to dry and then crushed with a bull hammer into pieces no more than 1 cm3.  This gives the charcoal a larger surface area and makes it easier to add to the soil.  I have used bigger lumps but they are cast to the top of the soil continuously by the frost rather than being incorporated within the top 15 cm of the soil. 

There are large numbers of micro pores formed from the xylem and phloem structures within the charred wood and both soil bacteria and fungi could find a habitat in these pores free of predators.
The importance of the micro fauna and flora of the soil cannot be overestimated especially when considering the number of symbiotic or mutually beneficial, relationships there are between micro organisms and crop plants.   There are some tentative indications that mychorrhizal fungi associations with crop plants are encouraged by the addition of charcoal to the soil. Mychorrhizal associations with plants enable them to obtain nutrients from a wider volume of soil than otherwise would be the case, the plant giving the fungi sugars in return. 

My contention is that cultivation disrupts this association and kills off mychorrhiza fungi through cropping, digging and forking.  Adding these fungi to the charcoal may help to replace them in the soil.  A number of scientists suggest that the soil is abundant in spores of these fungi and that adding more is superfluous.  They seem to be basing their assumptions on research into natural ecosystems rather than cultivated environments and I wonder if this still hold true.  

·         So I add mychorrhizal fungi to the charcoal as well.  But only after crushing the charcoal. 

There is some evidence that adding charcoal to compost heaps achieves the same adsorption of nutrients but I have not tried this. 
How much charcoal to add to the soil is another unanswered question and one that we are trying to assess.  There seems to be two ways of adding it.  

·         Spread it broadcast over the soil.
·         Just add it to planting areas in planting holes or along rows of seed drills.  

At the moment I am just adding charcoal to planting areas. 

A further advantage of adding charcoal seems to be its ability to help the soil to retain water while also allowing better drainage. 

 Charcoal is relatively inert in the soil so there is a great opportunity for sequestration of carbon.  The more charcoal that can be added to the soil the larger and better our crop plants will become. All these different advantages of adding charcoal to the soil seem to be both long lasting and cumulative.