brassicas (including swede, radish and kohl rabi),
peas/beans, (including asparagus pea)
roots (carrot, parsnip, salsify, hamburg parsley, and beetroot) and leaves (leaves are lettuce, chard, perpetual spinach, celery, celeriac?,chamomile, tarragon, dill, rocket and good king Henry.),
I also have a bed for three sisters, oca and cucumber.
You can combine or leave out any of these.
I always grow too much but I do like a variety. With an allotment you can grow things that you would have difficulty finding in the shops or would be very expensive to eat in the quantities the allotment allows -strawberries and raspberries for example.
Spread out under raised beds or dug into the soil, I doubt that manure will heat up to any noticeable amount. There is no definition for "well rotted manure" and I think that most pundits just repeat; "only use well rotted manure" as a kind of mantra rather than a reasoned piece of advice.
I think that there are a lot of misconceptions about how manure "burns" the roots. To make a sustainable hot bed you need a firm three foot high 3x6 foot pile of very fresh horse manure. This is made from manure straight out of the stables and turned every couple of days for a week or so.
When the hot bed is made about four to six inches of top soil are added to the top of the pile and the frames put on. If you make it really well, you need to leave the hot bed for a couple of days until the heat dies down and then you can plant or sow into the soil without any detriment to the plants.
Some might say that horse and farmyard manure is rich in nutrient salts and this may cause the plant roots to loose water though osmosis but I have never in 50 years of gardening experienced this. I would definitely use freshish horse manure. If it is dug in now it will significantly break down by the time you are planting.